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Peak Mountain 3

Eagle Terrace

FA Kelly MacLeod, Josee MacLeod 2003
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1

  • A big hold off the ground leads to some hard feet and some small holds, punch it up over the small roof and to a anchor. Short 40ft. 5.10+

P2

  • Plug in some medium gear up the right facing corner and make a hard rock over move. At the top of the short crack section is a bolt. Clip this and route find around roofs clipping a couple more bolts to a large ledge and 2 bolt belay. 90ft. 5.10-

P3

  • Climb up a runnel with opposing cracks, near the top of the runnel break over left and clip a bolt. Small nutting brings one to a right facing fist crack corner. After this the route is kinda weird as the bolt wants to pull you out left but there is a good corner to the right. Pull up onto a ?nice fat ledge?. 5.8+ 100ft.

I think this route stops here and the following pitches are a previously climbed route???

P4

  • Hop over the "chasm" to a curving crack, don't pass up gear and climb up to another large ledge and 2 bolt belay. 5.7 65ft.

P5

  • Climb up and around to the right of a big boulder on the ledge, after getting on top of this, a hand crack shoots up to another 2 bolt belay. 75ft. 5.7

P6

  • Climb the last pitch of Shovin' Moonful to the top. A fun and well protected O.W. leads to a single bolt and a boulder move (height dependent) to another 2 bolt anchor. 5.8+ 80ft.

Rap Walking the MoonBeam. 2 70M ropes will hit the ground from the summit.

We linked pitches 1 and 2, 4 and 5.

Location

This route doesn't quite start on the ground. Instead walk around the bottom buttress to a small "sidewalk" about 50 Ft. up. There are currently 2 bolted lines off of this sidewalk. The NorthEast Arete starts on the well....far NorthEast corner.

Protection

A rack up to #3 Camalot, set of nuts, QD's, slings nice.