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Peak Mountain 3

Greatest Route

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Description

'The Greatest Route at Greyrock' is certainly one of nicest lines of the grade. It ascends the right side of the southeast slabs. Approach by the Greyrock summit trail. As it skirts around the southeast face keep hiking (farther than one would expect) until reaching a small aspen grove very near the base of the wall. Now hike back (left, south) along the wall, with a bit of log hopping and boulders. Find a flared crack that ascends up and right -- this crack is immediately right of a short left facing dihedral capped by a small roof (obvious) just off the ground. You can also recognize the route by the roof amidst the slab at the end of the second pitch.

P1: Crux right of the ground, a balancy jam or two and high steps gain the slabby crack above (5.8). The pitch follows this and several other intermittent cracks up the clean slab above (5.7-8). A few exit moves traverse left to an obvious ledge (not so visible from below).

P2: Traverse back up and right up a crack system that deposits one below the pretty overlap roof. Jam and grunt over this one, don't forget to smile, belaying immediately above on a small ledge (5.8).

P3: Easy cracks and slabs lead a full rope length to a large ledge area below a small dihedral (5.6).

P4: Stem up the dihedral (5.5) and climb easy ground nearly a full rope length to ledges just below the summit of Greyrock. Watch for rope drag and communication problems between the belays on the upper pitches.

Protection

Standard rack including good span of cams up to #4 Friend (#3 Camalot) is nice. Small cams and tri-cams set well in occasional flares and horizontals.