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Peak Mountain 3

Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey)

FA Laurie Parcell, Craig Luebben, S. Schmetterer, Sally Moser
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This line lies immediately right of The

Greatest Route

at Greyrock, and sports a strikingly similar opening sequence through a short, right-facing dihedral capped by a roof ten feet off the deck.

P1: Boulder through the roof on good handjams (5.9), and follow cracks and face climbing to the left edge of a roof band to meet a second, much thinner, crux (5.9) with tricky pro. Pull the moves to gain a belay at a horizontal crack (hand-sized & larger cams). 5.9, 110 feet.

P2: Head straight up the face (9-) off the belay, passing two nice 3/8" bolts along the way to a seam. Continue up seams and face climbing - slightly runout - aiming right through quartzite terrain to find a suitable spot to belay near the huge P3 dihedral of

Barfy's Favorite

. 5.9-, 120 feet.

P3: Bearing right, climb the face, with cracks, above, passing a large dead tree. This face is "around the corner," so to speak, of the P3 dihedral of

Barfy's

. The angle eases and climbing leads to a convenient belay on a large ledge, also shared with

Barfy's

. 5.7+, 120 feet.

P4: This pitch is the same as P4 of

Barfy's Favorite

. Ascend the face or corner rising off the ledge (5.7 either way) to a right-facing corner and roof about 40 feet out. Pull through the squat overlap on good jams (5.7) and paddle up the crack above to a belay on/near the summit plateau. Better than P3. 5.7, 200+ feet.

Location

Ten or fifteen feet right of The

Greatest Route

at Greyrock lies a right-facing corner with a roof about ten feet off the ground. This is the start to Forward Never Straight. The second pitch runs parallel to the

Greatest Route

.

Protection

A standard rack up to #3 Camalot is fine for this climb, with an emphasis on small pro for the first pitch.