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Description
This is directly below White Lines and although not as committing, it gets you into the feel of steep granite climbing, making an excellent warm up for projects above.
From the little belay ledge/anchor, scramble up to the short, steep and very juggy mini-hedral trending up and right with jugs that are supplemented by slopers and crimps. Make your way to the teeny little pine tree, plug in a piece, then cut back left on the super fun sloper rail that turns the lip to the chains.
Location
Right of SPF 50 by 20' is Death of a Monarch. Scramble up the 5.7x terrain to a small flat ledge about 10' below the steep mini-hedral/crack that starts the climb. We added a 2-bolt belay on that ledge. You can see the bolts from the ground in the darkest part of the black streak.
Protection
yellow, orange, red-sized TCU's or .3, .4 and .5 camalots to get you to first the bolts, then a #1 camalot with a long runner for the middle piece and one more draw for the final bolt. 2-bolt/chain anchor.
Routes in Booty Wall Area
- 7Gateway Drug5.12aSport · Trad