- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a really fun bolder problem. We kept lowering off it on the way down from White Lines/Heisenberg and decided it might make a good warmup for the steep climbing above. At first we thought it would be much harder but key beta makes a fun little ditty. If this were on a boulder down in the canyon it would be a super popular V4.
Please note that blocks guard the start. We cleaned many of the giant blocks but couldn't budge others. We did the best we could and you'll want to tread lightly and wear a helmet. If you feel you can clean it better, please have at it. Just know that there is one block that you stand on at the beginning that really helps to get started. I jumped on it and beat it with a hammer but nothing budged. Might be better to just tiptoe around it and let it be because once you're on the route, its clean as a whistle.
I gave it 2 stars but would give 3 if it were longer and the scramble to the climbing were easier to clean.
Location
Approach via the 5.7 start to Death of a Monarch, looking out for the newly bolted belay anchor below the black streaked roof. Climb straight up and aim at the left bolt line.
Protection
Bring a medium cam or nut on a long sling to protect getting to the first of 3 bolts. Shares the anchor with Gateway Drugs.
Routes in Booty Wall Area
- 8Straight to Rehab5.12aSport