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MapDescription
This route climbs an offwidth to fingers to handcrack through a roof. More traffic will keep this gem lichen-free.
Begin in a challenging offwidth slot using a BIG piece to protect yourself (see shot of Tim Hume at the rather voracious start). Move up into a very engaging handcrack of lesser grade leading to the obvious roof. Turn the roof with a high pucker factor, placing a #3 camalot at the lip and continue up the groove to the top. Belay on gear. Descent is by rap rings at the very easternmost top of the formation, or use a new rap station atop Heartbreak June.
Location
Start in an obvious offwidth slot 40' left of
Ah Fair of the Heart
.
Protection
#6 or larger cams protects the slot.