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Spandex (aka Cardiac Arrest)
Description
This has two alternate starts. Either climb the start of Route #3, and cross over right halfway up; or start directly below the principle line. You'll find good jamming up to the thin, overhanging roof, and belay on gear. Bring your second up to the belay, and then insert a series of thin wires and/or Lowe Balls out the dicey roof on thin fingers and fantasy feet. Turn the daunting roof, and continue up the groove to the top at a lesser grade. Belay on gear.
Descent: use 2 rap stations described elsewhere or walk off towards the west.
Location
Locate the prominent, left-facing dihedral corner right of Route #3 on the topo.
Protection
A full set of cams with doubles at #3.5 and #4. Bring a full spread of wires including some very small nuts and Lowe Balls. You will need these!