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Peak Mountain 3

Juggerhead

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Description

I've asked many of the long-time local climbers about a history for this climb without much luck. If it was named by the first ascencionist noone I talked to seems to know what it is. Since it is between Juggernaut and Indian Head I thought Juggerhead would be appropriate.

Start in a fist crack with the hardest moves right off the ground. Where the crack peters out trend right towards the arete where the rock is most featured. Gear placements in the horizontals are right where you want them, don't pass any up. Rappell from slings at a tree.

Please pass along any FA info if you have it.

Location

Located in the same alcove above the main North End Trail as Juggernaut. About 15' right of the start of Juggernaut.

Protection

#4 Camalot can be placed with a Piedmont stick clip (your 6' climbing partner) to protect the opening moves.From there it is mostly small to midsized cams. Tricams are useful.