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Peak Mountain 3

Unknown 5.7 Crack

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Description

This route has some enjoyable climbing on it, and a lot of cool water features. Heads up for loose rock in a couple of places.

Scramble straight up into the corner system onto an obvious pedestal feature, then stem up into the steepening corner using a mix of crack and face skills. Where the crack steepens through a roof and the white rock on the left wall of the corner becomes more blank, exit right below the roof (being wary of some loose blocks) and continue to follow the broken crack system up through an exit notch at the top. It is possible to climb the crack through the roof directly at 5.9ish, but there is quite a bit of loose rock and it's contrived. Fun to do following with no one underneath you, not a great idea while leading.

At the exit, be mindful of another loose block, and try to stick to the left wall of the notch as you mantle out onto the spacious belay ledge. Stellar views up there, and a nuts-and-biners anchor. Top-roping not really recommended due to sharp edges, better to bring your second up. Single 60m raps safely to the ground.

Location

Approximately 200 feet West of the Nevermore chimney, before you get to most of the documented N.End routes there is a spot where the trail pinches in close to the cliff because of a tree on the left. You will be facing a dirty buttress with a wide chimney / crack where it meets the cliff forming a large right facing corner. This chimney / corner is about 50 feet past the start of Red River Face and Unknown 5.7 Crack. Immediately past the spot where the trail pinches off at the tree, look up and right, and you will see a chunky crack / corner system directly above you.

Protection

Cams to #3 Camalot, larger nuts, tricams. #2 and #3 Camalots not strictly necessary but add peace of mind and = no-brainer placements. Sling a chickenhead up high if you're inclined.