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Peak Mountain 3

Precipitation

FA Laton Kor and company
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Description

Precipitation is located on the face between

Turnkorner

and

The Nose

and starts 20 ft or so left of the HUGE flake leaning against the wall. From there it continues upward to the great roof which holds the exposed zig zag crux pitch.

Yes, some may not agree with the three stars I gave this route, but I really dug it. The free climbing is full-on sandbag yet of high quality. Plus ,the aid crux through the roof is super exposed and one of the best positions on Lumpy!

Contrary to what the guidebooks say, here is how I found the pitches to be rated. P1= 5.9 P2= C1 or solid 5.10?? P3= C1 or 5.9/5.10???(but don't quote me on that!) P4= C2/+? and P5 and up- follow

The Nose

route to the top or continue straight up the last A3 pitch of

Firebird

.

P.S. - send your tallest partner to make the big Laton Kor reach in the middle of the C2 roof!

Protection

Thanks to some fixed pins and clean aid gadgets, this route can and should continue to go hammerless. Bring a standard clean aid rack up to a #4 Camalot, one cliff hanger hook, and don't forget a big (or long?) cam hook for the inverted placement at the crux near end of roof. However, those new 2cams by Splitter Gear may do the trick there also? Note: belay at top of pitch 2 is not the best, but it's doable, but the belay on the top of pitch 4 (at end of roof) is bunk! This belay has one pin sticking halfway out and two antique Kor bolts which need replacement, yikes! I was able to back this anchor up a bit, but new bolts are needed.