Chain of Command

Chain of Command is a nice face climb and a natural way to continue past Bonzo.

P1: Climb

Bonzo

. Apparently the traditional way to do Chain of Command is to break left around the arete about 30 feet below the top of

Bonzo

, but it seems more natural to climb the dihedral all the way to the first set of anchors.

P2: Climb up and slightly left up ever-steepening rock. Most of the climb is bolt protected face climbing on somewhat fragile flakes. Clip a long runner to the last bolt and traverse right and then up to an intermediate anchor consisting of two star drive bolts (crux #1). Continue up and right above this anchor for another 20 feet to a second anchor. This last section protects with some small gear (no bolts despite what various topos may show) and contains the true crux of the route - a one or two move section right off a good stance.

We rapped to the anchor on top of

Bonzo

with a 70m rope and 5-10 feet of rope to spare. A 60m would be tight if it reached at all. One more rap to the ground.

Ten draws or so and a few TCUs/Aliens or wires.