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Peak Mountain 3

Throne of the Mountain King

FA Ben Townsend, Dorcas Miller July 2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Mantel a short initial corner and cross a grassy ledge to the base of the main dihedral. Up the corner, then work right and pull the bulge to an alcove with a bolted anchor. There's another anchor about 40' further, at the base of the next headwall, which allows easy rappel access, but if you toprope off the upper anchor you are guaranteed a lot of rope drag.

Location

From the Heathrow area, head down right along the base to an obvious big open book capped by a bulge. The climb goes out the right side of the bulge.

The top anchor is easily reached by scrambling down from the start of Joe's Route -- the bolts are visible above a small maple tree. (The anchor for Goat Yoga is down and right about 30'.) A short rappel down slabs reaches the anchor in the alcove.

Protection

Light rack emphasizing thin cams. Bolted belay/rappel anchor.