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MapDescription
Pull up out of the right side of the alcove onto a short slab, then step back left to a crack system. Follow the crack until it fades out, then step left to a short section of thin face climbing (5.8, bolt) that leads to a good ledge. Pull up a steep right-facing corner (crux) onto the headwall, then straight up to the top.
Location
About halfway up Joe's Route are two triangular, left-leaning chimneys. This route starts in a grassy alcove with a horizontal crack, at the base of the right chimney. Rappel twice with one rope, using a bolted intermediate anchor to climber's left.
Protection
Standard rack to 3" (4" optional), emphasizing small cams. Gear belay at the start (multiple 1" works best); bolted top anchor.
Routes in 04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
- 37Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START)5.10aTrad