Cache Pirates

This is a sustained, modern classic that generally follows natural crack systems on the left side of the Northeast face.  The route is wandering in nature, piecing together an improbable series of cracks, face traverses, and water grooves that grant passage for mortals up the imposing, heavily roofed face. We opted to bolt anchors and add bolts here and there in order to make this route more approachable than the earlier routes on the wall.  That said, this route is not to be taken lightly.

Expect early sun and afternoon shade, and maybe some shelter from the predominant N/NW winds relative to routes further right on the wall.  It’s reasonable to haul a small pack if desired, with care taken at traverses. Sloping but workable bivy sites are available on Der Major ledge above the final pitch 10.

P.1 "Wishbone Crack" Start up the moderate right leaning ramp.  Move left into the thin crack with piton and pull 5.11 moves to gain jugs and hand jams.  Easier climbing follows the crack up and left to an alcove and one bolt belay easily backed up with a hand size cam. 5.11 45M

P.2 "I've lost my Mojo" Move left from the belay and transfer delicately to the hand crack on the left.  Continue up this left-leaning physical crack to its end and follow discontinuous thin cracks to a final hand section and a belay on a nice ledge. 5.10+ 35M

P.3 Climb the physical wide crack with one bolt and exit left to easier flakes.  Belay below the intimidating offwidth roof.  5.9 25M

P.4 "Big Booty HO!" Face moves above the belay lead to hands as the crack cuts right.  Clip a bolt and pull over the lip to a 5.7 layback left and a 5.6R chimney leading to the belay. 5.10+ 25M

P.5 "Great Exercise" Climb the right leaning crack ignoring two hard to see bolts that lead up and left (this is "Pay to Play" Route 3 Kelsey).  Mostly hands and fingers.  5.10 45M

P.6 "Fembot Traverse" Continue out the right leaning crack encountering thin moves and gear (5.11+).  Easier climbing leads to a delicate and technical traverse on amazing grips protected by 3 bolts (5.11+).  Climb up past a piton and traverse right again to a right facing corner and a bolted belay.  5.11+ 37M

P.7 "Knob Escape" Follow the right facing weakness and move right into the thin black water groove/seam with a piton (5.10).  The climbing eases as the weakness trends left revealing amazing black knobs.  Mantle up on knob jugs and traverse right to a ledge and bolted anchor.  5.10 35M

P.8 "Cap'N Doubles' Reach Around" Climb the left facing corner to the double roof.  Clip the directional bolt left of the second roof to keep your rope out of the crack.  Enjoy the leaning corner until the right wall backs off considerably, allowing a short, steep passage up and right to an improbable small ledge with bolted belay.  Bust up to this ledge via direct boulder moves(5.11) or stay left and then traverse right to the small ledge (5.9).  5.11+ 36M

P.9 "Atmospheric Connector" Immediate crux moves past a bolt lead straight right to a solid one inch flake/crack.  Climb straight up this feature for 30-40 feet to a traverse right and another bolt.  Hidden holds to the right of the bolt lead to a hollow block with good hands.  Follow the main weakness until it begins to curve left, then bust right into steep black rock with intricate moves protected by three more bolts. Pull right around a bulge and romp up and right on low-angle terrain to a ledge by the big left-facing corner. 5.11+ 36M

P.10 "English Corner" Climb the corner right of the belay.  Although the climbing isn't terribly difficult,  funky and hard to place gear keeps it exciting!  Above, easier climbing in the black water groove corner with hands and big hands gives way to a belay ledge with bolts. The experience may be best captured by a UK grade!  E1 5a or 5.10 PG13 60M

Descent: Traverse Der Major ledge to the right and top out via mountaineering a loose 5.10+ chimney and walk off, or rap from P.10 with 2X70M ropes.  Either would be severe in foul weather or darkness.  See photo and topo for rappel beta. The rappel is reasonable but not the simplest (think 5.11 rappelling). Some raps are long and/or angling.  The rap route goes fall-line below the P.5 anchor, putting you in new terrain that would be very difficult to re-climb.  The final 70M rap puts you on the ramp at the start of the route and requires 4th class down climbing to reach the ground.

Route starts on the left side of the northeast face in the wishbone shaped crack system.

2X.3-#2 Camalot, 1X#3 Camalot, Micro cams, nuts, slings, draws