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Peak Mountain 3

All Grown ups are Pirates

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Description

Every climber who has walked the base of Mount Hooker has ogled this stunning splitter and I image many have taken the opportunity to caress it's fine grain granite glory.

Seriously though, The first pitch is stellar, it would be a classic at the Index Lower Town Wall, Yosemite Cookie Cliff, or the Squamish Smoke Bluffs.

Pitch 1 (5.10): Starting right off the deck, enjoy causal lay back until the crack widens, from here you'll have an options of stemming, jamming, palming, and lay backing your way up 75 feet of perfect granite splitter.  Belay at the obvious ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.9): Climb Straight up the face following the shallow flaring crack until it's obvious to cut around the corner to your left into a tight dihedral. From here to the tat anchor is easy 5.6 crack climbing.

You can rappel from the tat anchor with a SINGLE 70m rope to large ledge system that is above the start of pitch one and below the start of pitch two.  From here you can easily scramble around to the base of the climb.

Location

30 feet to the right of Cache Pirates on the far Left (east) side of Mount Hooker.  This is a two pitch route that begins on the ground.

Protection

Double Rack. Nothing bigger than a #3 BD

(rappel from the tat anchor at the top of pitch 2- a solid piton and a stopper)