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Peak Mountain 3

Neo-Quasi Bugaloo

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Description

One of the longest single pitches on the crag, coming in at about 105 feet. Bring a 60m rope or 2-50m. This route is the second route right of the big crack/gully system running through the middle of the crag. This route is the furthest line left running through the obvious roof. The climbing starts through some rough terrain (not very fun) and then breaks left at the 3rd bolt, I think heading straight up the slab on the right would be a little harder than 10a. Place long draws on the bolts below the roof to avoid rope drag. Once you pull the roof climb to a rest 3 bolts from the top. Clipping the 10th/11th bolt may be difficult if you are under 5'4", quite commiting and the crux of the route. From here, climb over the top and get your body in that alcove to clip the anchors, weird body position. Altogether a nice route, with crimps on the slab, a roof to pull and continuity. 2 stars.

Protection

12 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.