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Peak Mountain 3

Big Man On Campus

FA Tod Anderson, 1997
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

BMOC begins around the corner from

STBU

with a bit of scramble downhill. This route has several thin cruxes from 5.10 to 5.11 in the first 60 feet. BOMC gains the same overlap as

STBU

, 60 feet off the ground. Haul up the overlap to face a difficult finger traverse that winds left and then back right to come back to the plumb-line from the anchors. The rock is very good. The moves are difficult but well protected, and the line has a lot of continuity. If it did not face South/East BMOC would undoubtedly see a lot more traffic than it does. I thought that The Great Defoliator did a fine job with this one.

Protection

QDs only. This 100 foot route needs about a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. BMOC needs a 60m rope for descent, or bring two.