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Peak Mountain 3

Los Gigantos II (W.Face)

FA Dave Evans, Brian Povolny & Todd Gordon, April 1994
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb goes up the West Face of the Los Gigantos II, which is the middle of the three giant buttes which are east of the tiny town/settlement of Round Rock, Arizona. I did this climb in April of 1994, and didn't draw a topo for it, but I sort of remember the pitches. Pitch 1; This pitch went through the lumpy Cutler (I believe it is called) layer of sandstone;....5.10 A2...not the best pitch of the climb, but got the team up aways. Pitch 2;. This is the crux pitch...it went up and right , through some thin sections, and some sections of not so good rock. Slow and challenging climbing. 5.9 A3+. We got a rope stuck on this pitch on the rappels down, and had to leave it! (So be careful) The belay is cool....5 fixed KB's right in a row;....sort of dicey;...as they are all in the same crack system, and sort of close together.,,,.maybe a bolt added to this would be cool. Pitch 3; Traverses back to the left to a ledge at the base of a thin crack. Pitch 4; This is the coolest pitch of the climb; the "money" pitch; about 120 ' of the same crack system....I believe it was a corner that took mostly all TCU's the whole way (except one #4 friend placement.)...Lots, and lots of TCU's (maybe 20-30?....we had them with us!)_This went to the summit. I don't believe this climb has seen a 2nd ascent. This climb isn't in any guide.

Location

This is the middle of the Gigantos, which are the big buttes located east of the settlement of Round Rock , Arizona.

Protection

Triple rack of cams, maybe 20 pins, and alot of T C U's. Slings