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Peak Mountain 3

Smith Spire West Face

FA Doug Smith, Todd Gordon Mar., 1984
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a very interesting climb on a very cool formation is an extremely isolated corner of the Navajo Reservation. This formation blends into the canyon walls behind it, and is hard to spot from the road. When you finally find it, it is an awesome formation shaped like a lightbulb. the climb is only 2 pitches. 4th class up a ways to to pitch one Pitch one; a short bit of aid, to a 4th class traverse, followed by 5.7 hands leads to the top of pitch one. Pitch two goes up a thin section (A 2), then to an overhanging section (The underside of the "lightbulb".)....maybe A3/4......more thin nailing leads to the lower angle section and finally the summit.(Big cam near the top )

Location

Up against the mesa to the east of the highway, just south of Rock Point, Arizona.

Protection

10 angles, 20-30 more pins, many slings/sections of rope for summit anchor. about 10-15 cams, tie offs, biners. The anchor on top is sort of wild;... about 7 or 8 pins hammered into "dirt" at various sections of the summit, and all tied off together with a section of rope I thought it was dicey.