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Peak Mountain 3

Kelp Bed Freak Show

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Description

Kelp Bed Freak Show is a route with some good movement but is marred by ledges and rope position during a lead.

Unclip the 3rd and 5th bolts upon getting the 4th and 6th, respectively, to reduce rope drag and keep the rope from running horizontally below you during a crux move or potential fall.

Climb up past 2 bolts on vertical terrain to a awkward move and a 3rd bolt. Pull onto lower angle rock, and cruise up toward a corner, above another sloping ledge. Stay right in the corner, and do some palming and stemming until incuts are reached. Then climb these to the top. At the top, you can struggle up a pile of big round rocks, or you can find the one good jug below these (perhaps buried in dirt again, as it tends to be), and then move left good 4-finger edges and to the anchor on good rock, provided you keep your eyes open for that option.

Location

Just up and right from the tightly-bolted and rounded arete of

Nuns on the Beach

lies this undulating climb up to and through the overhanging and obtuse corner.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.