Unicorn Tower

This is certainly not Ceuse three star quality, but it is a great route by South Saint Vrain standards. It felt a bit harder to me than anything at the Fang, so it might be the hardest route in SSV at the moment. Also worth noting that Trojan Bunny Buttress is a nice crag with decent routes of all grades, ample shade, and a quick approach, so hopefully this route will avoid obscurity.

Begin with

Goldshut Arete

. Put a long sling on bolt six, and move left up to a jug. From here, intricate, technical, and often inobvious climbing angles left through a seam to an awkward rest below the roof. A boulder problem finale out the roof leads to horizontal jugs in a crack. Step right easily onto

Sonata

. Clip one bolt on

Sonata

before finding a hidden anchor just above on the left side of the arete.

Thanks and love to my daughter Hera for naming the route, helping with work on the approach trail, and a unicorn-tastic! paint job on some of the hangers, and to Herm for the good company and support.

Some notes:

A double draw on bolt eight allows you to stretch up and clip from the jug, avoiding a mid-crux clip.

Put a double draw on bolt ten to reduce drag.

There is a permadraw at the roof.

There is a fair bit of rope drag as you join

Sonata

, but fortunately the climbing is easy.

I climbed directly on the bolt line through the final roof, but it may be possible to cheat right onto

Sonata

a little earlier. This could be a bit easier, but that wouldn't change the grade, since there's a no hands rest before the roof. Expect it to be a bit dirty if you do this.

It's possible to equip most of the route as you lower off

Sonata

or

Goldshut Arete

.

Start with

Goldshut Arete

on the right side of Trojan Bunny Buttress.

~15 draws.