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Peak Mountain 3

Fire On The Mountain

FA Richard Wright, September, 2000
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Description

Fire On The Mountain is situated on the Leatherface plate of The Trojan Bunny Buttress, at the far West end of TBB. It starts in a corner looking up the slab with a small move over an overhang at 10 feet and then enters a shallow dihedral with a 10 foot section of thin crack. Another roof move at the end of the crack, and the crux at 5.11c, will exit the dihedral. 30 feet of slab/seam climbing puts you at the anchor. The last move before the anchor is a bit spooky; reach right and come back left for the anchor clip. The crack in the lower half has been done on bolts (2) and with a few trad pieces, and it felt to me less committing on trad since it was possible to get in several more pieces. Very thin gear saves the pods for the hands. This route was surprisingly strenuous, largely because the dihedral overhags enough to keep you on your arms the whole way. Two stars for the climbing and the excellent quality rock.

Protection

QDs and/or a few pieces of thin crack gear. This 70 foot route needs 8-10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.