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Peak Mountain 3

Back in Black

FA Brian Mullin
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is not on Cactus Rose Wall proper, however it is on the south side of the Bank. To find this route, from the bank day parking area, hike down the road that drops into the bottom of the bank. You will pass a small tower on the left with a bolted route on its face (tower of beta 12b). Slightly past this, on the left side, there is a very faint trail underneath the juniper tree that goes up the hill to the base of the cliff. Walk to the right about 40 feet and find black pocketed rock with 3 bolts. This is back in black.

Climb through the 3 assorted bolts to the single bolt anchor. The bolts are very close to the flake/crack on the left hand side, so it is pretty contrived to climb it at 10b. Most likely you will use the left hand flake/crack. Doing this made the route feel closer to the 5.9 range.

Not a terrible route. Excellent rock quality and pockets. Just really short.

Protection

3 bolts, no anchor. Lower off of 3rd bolt.