- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is an excellent and sequential route. It features steep crimpin' and sharp pocket pullin' (big surprise). The technical crux is around the third clip, crimping on a gnarly, slippery sidepull. It is somewhat reachy. It eases off a little bit after that, with a shake out rest followed by another sting-in-the-tail set of thin balance moves getting to the intimidating last clip (I used a looong sling for this one). Finish with jugs to the anchors.
The guidebook calls this 12a/b, but I would lean more on the "b" side, IMO. For crude comparison sake, I thought this route was harder than
Freeform
,
Phase Dance
,
Helter Skelter
, or Sleight of Hand (in Ten Sleep). About the same or harder than
Little Mecca
or
Happiness
(Ten Sleep).
Location
This is the route just right of
Cactus Rose
, and third route right of the 5.9 crack that is between
Bachar...
and
E=mc^2
.
Protection
Half a dozen bolts or so. A long draw is helpful on the last clip. I stick clipped the first one.
Routes in Cactus Rose Cliff
- 19Barbecueing Traditions5.12-Sport