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BGP (Of Vice and Men)
Description
Follow hand crack in left facing corner to a roof, throw in a #5 as far out as you can reach then pull the roof using good holds on the right face and great fists. Above, follow the perfect offwidth while walking a #6 all the way up.
There are different names and first ascensionists credited to this route: 1993 Deep South Climber's Companion: not listed 2005 Dixie Cragger's Atlas: BGP 9+, Ben Faber, 1995 2013 Dixie Cragger's Atlas: BGP (Of Vice and Men) 9+, Ben Faber, 1995 2014 Chattrad: Of Vice and Men 10-, Steve Goins & Truly Bracken, January 1995
Location
Around the corner from Octopd Palace alcove, look up to find the perfect wide crack splitting the upper face. Start beneath the roof at a striking hand crack.
Protection
Bring the big stuff! Double 6's would be welcome, but easily done with single 5 and walking a single 6. Offwidth will take small aliens and a .5 inside the crack as intermediate protection. Ring anchor on the right face.
Routes in T-Wall East
- 163BGP (Of Vice and Men)5.9+Trad