Slug Trail

Balance your way up a right-leaning crack to some face climbing through brown-colored rock. From here, the cleanest path upward leads right toward the arete then back up to the left. That's the way we went, and it didn't seem any harder than 5.7. Going straight up left from the brown rock to the top might bump it to 5.8, which is the rating in the guidebook. But that path looked dirty and uninspiring.

Once on the ledge, dodge through some bushes and up another short face to a tree anchor.

Easiest to locate from its better 5.7 neighbor, The Garden. From The Garden, walk back left along the cliff side past Hungry for Heaven until you round the left side of the buttress and start heading uphill. Go past an obvious corner with a big crack in it and continue scrambling uphill until you find a 20-foot crack splitting the face with a brown section of rock above that.

light rack, slings around a tree at the top