Birthday Party

Scary Larry has never believed that Red Rock Canyon ever gets hot. It can get warm, but not really hot. He doesn't really understand why people avoid the place in the summer. For this reason, when an ambitious and eager climber named Jeff Raymond actually wanted to climb in Red Rock on his birthday (July 2), Larry immediately went into action, pulling from his 'list' something appropriate to do along with recruiting another climber or two to make it a party for Jeff on his birthday.

After two more friends decided to join us, the plan was set- a new line up the Community Pillar in Pine Creek canyon. It should be noted that loose rock is present on the 5th pitch, thus making this pitch serious for the grade (or encouraging a detour onto the variation listed below).

About 150 feet left of Community Pillar is an obvious crack system. About 30 feet further left is a short chimney leading to a left-facing, varnished corner.

Pitch 1: Climb past the roof (5.10a), with good protection, and continue up the corner to a comfortable ledge.

Pitch 2: Follow the crack (5.9) to a good ledge at the base of the large chimney.

Pitch 3: On the left hand side of the monster chimney you are in is a smaller chimney. Head up this and then step right, following a crack to a dihedral. This leads to a stance at the top of the corner. 5.7, 100'.

Pitch 4: Head up the slab and crack above, eventually stepping right over a loose boulder and then following the crack until it ends. From here a short traverse to the left gains a second crack. Follow this crack until it ends at a huge ledge. 5.9, 190'. [Note: If rope drag or gear is an issue, just after the traverse is an optional hanging belay.]

Pitch 5: From here, head up the obvious slot above, following the chimney until you reach its end. From here, head left and up the slabs, aiming for a tree at the top. Belay here. 5.8 R, 190'. (A recommended alternative is to traverse left on easy rock and join the Honeycomb Chimney near the top of its 4th pitch.)

Descent: Descend as per Community Pillar.

Variation (5.9): Start at the first crack/chimney to the left of Community Pillar. This is about 30 feet right of the standard starting corner. Work your way straight up the squeeze to a comfy belay ledge. 5.9, 70'. A number 4.5 Camalot provides protection. The second pitch continues up the obvious chimney (5.8), joining the standard route at a large ledge. Rock quality and protection are issues.

A standard rack will do. Extra hands and fist pieces are handy.