- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route starts way on the left side of the base section of the Magic Triangle formation. Two pitches of crack climbing lead to a broken, 4th class area at mid-height. Go right, connecting the ledge systems with an interesting climb across a chasm. The long traverse brings you to cracks on the right side of the upper triangle. The next pitch goes up to a horizontal break. Then move left to a spot where you can climb over the overhang (5.9) and continue to a belay near the right edge of the wall. The crux pitch goes up past some soft rock to a smooth traverse left (limited pro) to reach a thin crack, which is followed up to a belay stance. The last pitch is easier and goes right to the summit of the formation.
Protection
Large cams are useful on the second pitch; small cams near the crux.
Routes in North Face
- 11Magic Triangle5.9Trad