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Peak Mountain 3

Deviant Deviations

FA Harold Hall and Greg Orton, 1998.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1: Begins up thin crack up downhill side of west face of Split Tooth Pinnacle, joining with Split Personality following bolt line climbing left across slab under pronounce overhang to large belay ledge and tree at center of west face (5.8). P2: From belay ledge at tree scramble to right side of the ledge to the right side of an obvious large crack feature. From here traverse up onto a wide arete (5.7) following bolts to the summit (5.8). Rappel ~95 feet off top anchors (two bolts, no chains). Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, volume 2: Umpqua, Orton (ed) 2007. Topo C page 224.

Location

West face of Split Tooth pinnacle. From the road, uphill and left of Buddha Tooth pinnacle. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, volume 2: Umpqua, Orton (ed) 2007. Maps 2 and 3, pp. 218-219.

Protection

mostly bolted, crack at bottom takes nuts and cams, PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.