Split Personality

Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, volume 2: Umpqua, Orton (ed) 2007. Topo C page 224. P1: climbs onto face uphill and left of the crack (Deviant Deviations 5.8). Follow bolt line up (5.7) and under overhanging rock (5.8) until it ties into the fore-mentioned crack to the right. From this crack follow bolt line back left across the slab under a pronounced overhang (5.8)  to the belay ledge and tree at the center of the pinnacle (belay bolts, no chains). P2: Walk the ledge left to to a large off-width chimney crack that splits the pinnacle to its summit. Follow bolts (5.9) up into the crack. Scramble the bottom off-with (5.5, one bolt) to the narrow portion of the chimney, then make a fun chimney climb to the summit (5.8, one bolt). Rappel ~95 feet off two top anchors (no chains) to the ground.

This route climbs Split Tooth pinnacle uphill and left from the road of Buddha Tooth pinnacle. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, volume 2: Umpqua, Orton (ed) 2007. Maps 2 & 3 pp. 218-219.

Mostly bolts, may be an occasion opportunity for nut or cam placement, no chains at belays, PG = exposure on leads generally not suitable for someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating. Bolts are Fixe SS 3/8" double expansion.