Lovelace

This grade IV or V route features great rock in a spectacular setting. Climbs an ever widening crack to the top. The view looking down on the fang is fantastic. The free version is 5.12

P1 - Ascend a short approach pitch to a left facing corner.(5.6)

P2 - Ascend corner 5.10 to a narrow ledge.

P3 - Move belay right and up along a "thank God" type ledge.

P4 - Ascend thin splitters for 160' to a ledge (C2 or 5.12).

P5 - Jam a perfect hand crack (5.9) to a stance below a shallow chimney.

P6 - Climb the chimney for 40'. Traverse left to an improbable flake. Ascend this to a cool ledge (5.9) Amazing pitch.

P7 - Climb the 5.10 offwidth above to a belay below a deep chimney.

P8 - The slick bombay chimney above (5.9) ends at a hanging belay inside the chimney...Wow!

P9 - Climb the heads up squeeze chimney & offwidth to the top (5.9+)

Rap route...50m ropes will work.

This classic, striking crack system is located just left of, and behind the fang spire.

3 sets TCU's, 3-4 sets cams up to a #5 camalot. Many small to medium nuts. Bring some big cams too.