- Edit (TBD)
Description
P0: scramble up ledge systems with short 5th class moves, shared approach with Lovelace. Fine in approach shoes with packs if fixed lines are present
P1: 5.7 120' Starting on a large ledge system where the wall steepens, route find through more ledges. Belay on left ledge at base of arete, sharing bolts with a mystery route heading left. Single Rack
P2: 5.10+ 100' easy chimneying leads to a stout wide hands section and an offwidth pod. Belay with bolts (Pardon the hanging stance, the chimney ledge below was deemed dangerous during the FA). Single rack to #6, 3 #3s, 2 4s
P3: 5.11 110' The Rollercoaster Pitch: sustained fists and cupped hands the entire way! Climb though a flared corner, around a roof, and up a rounded bulge to a decent stance with bolts. 4-6 #4s and 4-6x #3s, 1x #2 opptional.
P4: 5.10 80' The Worm Hole: tunnel into the wall to find a hidden tight hands crack. When the crack ends after 40', tunnel back out to daylight. A tipped out 6 protects exiting the hole. Clip a bolt on the face and punchy laybacks lead to a nice hand crack finish. Doubles 0.5-2, 1x 6, extra 1 and 2 could be nice. Good two bolt stance on the right face.
P5: 5.10+ 90' Finger laybacking leads to crack funk and a fun buldge. Double 0.3-4, extra 0.4-0.5. Semi hanging belay at two bolts.
Location
The large, twisting, right facing corner left and behind the Fang Spire.
Follow the creek east from the first switchback for 5-10 min. Cut left once you reach smooth slabs coming off the creek. Scramble through the slabs, then cut right along a large flat ledge. At the first erosion ridge, head uphill roughly following the crest of the ridge picking the easiest terrain. Once nearing the intermediate cliff band, diagonal right to gain a low spot. Head straight up the the main cliff, then traverse left along the base. Watch for ramp systems rightward through the 4th class terrain to the base of the corner. This 4th class section is shared with Lovelace.
Protection
2x 0.3
2-3x 0.4
2-3x 0.5
2x 0.75
2-3x #1
2-3x #2
4-6x #3
4-6x #4
1x #6
Rap with a single 70m