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Peak Mountain 3

Animal Farm

FA Dick Williams and Brian Carey 1964
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The first pitch used to be worth climbing if you were looking for something easy in the far Nears, but now you are better off walking a bit farther to get to Eowyn. As of Sept. 2017 the climb has largely returned to its primordial state and gardening skills will be required for any ascents planned for the near future.

P1: 5.3, head up an obvious arching, right-facing corner over slabs to an alcove. Move right over lichenous ground to a corner then move back left and up to the rap tree for Cherokee. Wire brush and weed whacker useful.

P2-4: Choose your own adventure: the original route veered left rather than heading right to the Cherokee anchors, then continued up and right for a pitch, then walked back 40' left to a line 10' right of BM (5.8R, loose rock) right around an overhang then tend left to a ledge below a shallow open book with a crack. Several P4 variations (5.6-5.8) will get you to the top from here. Note that the FA'ist does not recommend any of this. Instead P2(5.6) and 4(5.7G) of Cherokee with a 5.5 P3 near BM are preferred.

Location

At an obvious right-arching corner, to the right of the beautiful orange face of Cherokee.

Protection

Gunks rack, gardening tools.