Scuttlebutt

The beta on this route is a little confusing; the Dick Williams guides variously list one or more pitches. If there is in fact a second pitch, it evidently never gets climbed, judging by the loose rock and lichen. That having been said, Scuttlebutt is definitely a worthwhile climb, especially when the more popular routes are occupied.

A challenging start goes up a face with sparse pro, trending left to a nose. Follow this nose and the face climbing above it to a spacious belay ledge with a pine tree.

Scuttlebutt starts about 15' left of Day Tripper corner, and just right of the obvious nose. The popular landmark in this section is Easter Time Too.

Descent: Rap down from the pine tree.

Small to medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams). Build a gear anchor at the top of the pitch. Rap rings are slung on a pine tree at the ledge.