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MapDescription
Start up a nice crack in a left facing corner below a large roof. The second edition Watts guide describes this as a pleasant crack that most people climb to the bolt and lower from. The original route continues by traversing left then up through steep blocky terrain.
Beyond the initial traverse, the climbing is 5.8-5.9 up to the blocks, then probably 5.10 or more to finish. There is no 5.7 terrain above the traverse.
Location
The unmistakeable corner with the large roof about 20 feet to the left of Theseus
Protection
A couple of pieces to 2 inches if you're just climbing the crack. If you're going all the way to the top, add a set of wired stoppers.
Routes in The Textbooks
- 13Heart Throb5.9Trad