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Peak Mountain 3

Avant Garde

FA Alan Watts, TR, 1991
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Description

The crux section of this route constitutes one of the better thin finger cracks in the park. It's overhanging, technical, and totally awesome. It was really fun to tr solo, and I think it would make a great training route for someone who climbs 5.10 cracks, and would like to work some more advanced technique. The downside, or upside, depending on your persuasion, is that it's fairly short (if the crux lasted for sixty feet, it'd easily be 5.13). Above the overhanging fingers, the route gets a bit dirtier and much easier.

Location

At the far right end (climber's right) of the student wall, just before the 5.8, Graduation Day, which is just before the rock jumble. You can identify it from the top by finding a bolt for Graduation Day, and then backtracking to the next anchors. Or from the ground by looking for an overhanging finger crack right off the deck.

Protection

TR off a couple of bolts. Maybe this hasn't been led? In his new guide, Watts says that it's been TR'd. He usually mentions "first lead" as well. Maybe you could be the first?