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Peak Mountain 3

Conscious Water

FA Dante Gambardella, Ian Dodds
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start at the left most side of the broad ledge at the base of the east face. Traverse left over the couloir towards some trees. The crux of the route is just below these trees (first pitch, 10+) and may require small gear or knife blades to protect well. Move past the trees into a corner that exits left of a big roof. Gain the lower angle terrain that makes up the left side of the east face. At about pitch 2 or 3 will be a chimney. Continue along the right margin of the face following mostly 5.9-10a terrain.  There is a piton below a 10a roof at about 3/4 height.  The route literally goes direct to the summit! There are many slots and corners on this face, choose your own adventure.  As you drink the water that you have retrieved from the runoff below, remember that it may be conscious.

Location

From Elbow Lake head right past the lake inlet and gain the upper lake.  The East face of Mo rises from the cirque before going up and over to Cowens NE ridge.  You can either go direct from below or walk around to the right and traverse in.

Protection

Mellow double rack, pitons are fun.