- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is an awesome route on the north/northwest aspect of Eenie Spire. It involves a significant "approach block" to get to the base of the main headwall. This approach block begins low and right on the face just above the Coombs-Tanner Couloir. Expect at least 200 meters of mostly 5th class with sections of 5.7, following the prominent ledge system which angles up and left. This ledge system ends when you poke around a corner and find the "magic chimney," a perfect entry to the base of the main head wall, so cool!
Then, find yourself beneath the striking splitter which is the main feature of the headwall. This thing is so good. On the FA we pulled on gear and cleaned a significant amount of dirt and lichen out of the crack. We guess that it will be freed at about 10+/11- ! Small nuts and cams are useful here. The entire crack goes from tips up to hands over about 60 meters.
From there, head to the "geometric unity" blocks, were there are really cool features like roofs and caves. The weakness goes at about the 5.8/5.9 range. Continue on straight to the summit. Descend as for Centennial.
Location
From Elbow Lake, head left as per Centennial or Cowen. Pass the "garage door" and ascend the Coombs-Tanner Couloir (mostly dry in late summer). It is valuable to walk out to the left for a view of the entire face. Better yet, it is best to scope from above as if you were descending from Miney or Mo spire. You can see the headwall splitter from here. Alternatively, it seems like it is possible to climb further up the couloir or drop in from above for a direct start that avoids the approach block.
Protection
Double Rack.
Routes in Cowen Massif
- 5Tensor Flow5.10Alpine · Trad · Aid