Sinewave (aka S Crack)

Sinewave: One of the most intriguing routes to be found at the Old New Place or in White Rock, for that matter. A challenging and sequency boulder problem off the deck, begin climbing the sinusoidal crack, which will test your skills and strength as you work to keep from barndooring off. The crack is more of a seam for the first 15 feet, although there are places where small RPs would provide protection; bold leaders solid at the grade will love this route. After the initial crux the grade eases for the next 15 feet with large ledges providing good rests and more opportunities to place gear. The route splits into two cracks after this: the left crack, which is assumed to be off-route, goes at a grade of 5.8 to 5.9 rattly fingers to hands with lots of face holds; the right takes you up an excellent overhanging thin fingers to tips crack which, if not for a large sinker pocket midway up on the left, would be significantly more difficult. Ten more feet of climbing in the crack and on small crimps gets you to the top of this classic route.

Historical Note: It’s reported that the late Derek Hersey freesoloed Sinewave back in the day. Think about that next time you jump on this route!

Route 13 on the

Old New Place route guide. (I couldn't fit the route names/grades in anywhere so refer to the route descriptions here for corresponding number.) . Easily identifiable by its namesake, Sinewave begins 15 feet to the left of Rattlesnake Crack.

Nuts: 1 set including micros Cams: 1 each up to #1 Camalot with doubles in the .3 to .5 range. Micro TCUs or C3s may come in handy too. 2-bolt anchor.