- Edit (TBD)
Description
Follow the left leaning crack system just left of the high roof routes. Lieback at the start, to a hand crack section, which is protected with cams and can be jammed or liebacked. Then cruise up an offwidth section on a ramp that's easier than it looks. The crux is at the small triangular roof, which is bypassed on the left using face holds or a reach to jugs straight over it.Protection is great the whole way, so this climb is one of the more popular leads at the ONP.There are 2 poorly-protected direct starts to this climb to do TR in the 5.11 to 5.12 range beginning left of the normal start; both are posted.
Location
Just left of the high roof identify a left leaning hand crack. This climb is route 4 in the main ONP page photo and Jemez Rock.
Protection
Rack: cams & nuts to 3" with an optional 4" piece 2-bolt anchor.
Routes in Old New Place
- 6Bee Sting5.9Tr · Trad