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Peak Mountain 3

Roseland

FA Jim McCarthy, Hans Kraus 1958. FFA: Jim McCarthy, 1960
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Description

Roseland has one of the best 5.9 pitches in the Gunks. Since there are fixed chains at the end of the first pitch, most climbers rap after the first pitch.

Start about 80' left of Gelsa and 45' right of Transcon at a beautiful right-facing corner with an overhang halfway up.

P1: Follow the beautiful right-facing dihedral for 65'. The crux comes as you traverse to the right for 15' to the ledge with the bolted anchors. 5.9, 90'.

P2: Follow a shallow corner located up and left from the belay. Belay on a ledge. 5.8, 60'.

P3: The final pitch takes a line on the arete to the left of Gelsa. 5.7, 100'.

Protection

Gear to #2 Camalot with extra finger-sized gear.