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Peak Mountain 3

Birdland

FA Jim McCarthy, John Rupley, Jim Andress, 1958
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

One of the classic "Land" climbs. And yes, that's the same John Rupley that put up so many climbs in Arizona.

This climb is easy to find. Follow the trail past the huge right-facing corner of Roseland, past the 'gym', and up a few steps to the next huge corner (Bird Cage), just before the cliff becomes licheny.

P1: Start at the corner, but work up and right across the horizontals to a fixed pin, and pull a small overhang. Continue up the face (crux; may be tricky to protect) and eventually work a bit right to the arete. Two bolts await you higher and further out on the arete. 5.8+, 90'.

Many people rap from here but the second pitch is just as good.

P2. Proceed up into a steep left-facing corner, then past some small roofs, to the top. 5.8+, 115'.

Descend at the Fat City tree or on the trail.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.