- Edit (TBD)
Description
Excellent pitch of slab climbing! Thin moves angling up and left past three bolts. Crux is well protected, but 5.9 runout above is not. Belay on small ledge with three bolt anchor.
Charles Vernon adds: This is actually a four-pitch route starting from the left end of Pine Tree ledge, out of the Black Quacker gully. Pitches 1 & 2 as shown in SQ II are fun (particularly the arching 5.9 corner), mildly spicy, and can be combined. They are not as good as Quick Death, but worth doing if you've already done that route. A light rack to a #2 friend is sufficient for these pitches. After the crux, the last pitch, which is much easier, heads straight up past a bolt to the chickenheads. Or you can head up and right to merge with the last contrived, but fun 5.8ish pitch of Black Magic Woman.
Location
This pitch starts in the gully above Obituary Column but below the tree.
Protection
All Bolts.
Routes in Rappel Rock
- 10Voodoo Child5.11aTrad