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Peak Mountain 3

The Corner

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Description

Climb an easy slab with discontinuous cracks up and then right to reach the left facing open dihedral capped by a roof. The start of the dihedral is the business. After the roof, move upwards to hit the roof crack and then traverse left. The original route continues upward still but we escaped further left to get on Pine Tree Ledge.

Addendum: you can also start on the slab directly below the corner. There is no protection but the climbing is pretty secure. Bout 5.7/5.8ish I think.

Location

As you hike down the east side of Rappel Rock, near the toe, you'll see a right facing corner that transitions into a wide crack. To the right of the wide crack, you can see a pretty left facing open corner. Start by a small tree at the base. You want to approach the corner from the left.

Protection

Bring your standard rack. There are two old bolts. Don't worry. Since the leader mustn't fall.

!!! Protect your second on the traverse. And if you decide to traverse further to Pine Tree Ledge, you won't be able to protect the moves down and left for the second. A fall for the second will be bad. But the climbing isn't that hard. Just make sure the second has a cool head.