Halcyon

The pitch off the ground is short, but a 5.8-5.9 climber will find it packed: balancy face climbing on a blunt arête, a stimulating traverse over a drop-off, and a roof band with surprisingly good holds. (1) Climb the arête past three bolts to good cams. Continue up until possible to traverse right under and eventually over the roofband. Belay from the anchors for

Vector Madness/Vertical Component

(but keep in mind the swing potential for your second). 60 feet. (2) Step right and climb the headwall above to another set of anchors. 50 feet.

Starts left and maybe 25 feet uphill of

Vector Madness/Vertical Component

. Rappel from chain anchors. 70 meter rope can get you down in one rap.

Draws and singles of nuts and cams to two inches.