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Peak Mountain 3

Bad Moki Crack

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Description

Climb a steep start to gain the groove. Cheater stones on the ground may help with getting started if you're shorter. Once gaining the groove work left on balance moves to gain the left facing corner system. Work up the corner and finish on the slab with two bolts and the anchor.

High on Moab describes and Unnamed 5.6 but the line described here is more straight forward, higher quality and easier to protect than the slab start described in the book.

Location

To the right of the big roof climbed by Horizontal Mambo is a water polished groove and drainage. Start in that groove in a weakness with a crack to the right of a steep panel of rock.

Protection

2 bolts plus finger to hand size cams.


Routes in Wall Street


  1. 96
    Bad Moki Crack
    5.7
    Trad