2. Baldy
Description
[Edit]South-facing slab in upper cliff a ways east from Tower Wall, just West (left) from Albion sector, with obvious mid-platform between its lower and upper sections.
The routes are short, so no individual route tends to get many quality stars. But each route has interesting climbing, and with some cleverness in setting top-rope anchors, can efficiently get a lot of good easy/moderate climbing by visiting here (especially when combined with Albion sector).
A bit tricky to reach its base or main mid-platform as of 2015. Perhaps easiest to rappel or lower in from top anchor (perhaps after doing some Top-Rope climbing in the Albion sector). Or an experienced trad leader could belay the other climbers across from the Albion main base mid-platform.
The obvious main mid-platform slopes toward a dangerous cliff drop-off around it. So if have any doubts about the carefulness or focus of some participants, good idea to tether them - (One way to do that would be hang a fixed rope down from an anchor at the top).
Top-Roping: To set up a top anchor, traverse right (East) under the base of the Shadow Castle and Devonshire sectors, and continue past a steep loose gully and under the Jumble Hotel crag, almost to the base of the Puzzle Palace crag. Scramble up the steep left-trending gully (careful of loose sections) on the left side of Puzzle Palace, then horizontal Left (SouthWest) along the top of the cliff past above Albion slab, scrambling down below the top about twenty feet SouthEast. ... or ... Top anchor could also be reached by going out around way southeast to the top of the Tower Wall, then walking NorthEast along the top of the cliffs, then scrambling down below the top about twenty feet SouthEast. ... or ... Make a Trad lead of the Ballroom route.
warning: The rock on and around this cliff has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
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