(8) Anglin's Buttress

Anglin's Buttress is a striking, 350 foot, South West facing wall named after legendary Oregon adventure climber, Jim Anglin.  It's best described as four star movement and position on heavily cleaned one star rock.  It hosts five multi-pitch sport climbs to the top, a 5.12 base route, and the newly refurbished, excellent crack climb, Deception Crack. All routes start from a common ledge, accessed by a bolt protected 5.4 move.All anchors sport the latest Metolius steel 'biners for an easy descent from any pitch with a single, 70 meter rope.Helmets are highly recommended for all routes on Anglin's Buttress.  Expect loose rock.**Caution!  Every route on Anglin's Buttress crosses an unavoidable layer of rotten rock.  This layer is visible from a distance and runs across the first pitch of every route.  It makes up the first 30 feet of Jim Climbing/ Chosstafarian, the first 30 feet of Anglin n' Danglin, and the first 30 feet of Optigrab.  The entire Gutter formation (Lava Lanes, 7/10 Split, and Deception Crack) runs across this rotten layer.  No amount of cleaning or traffic will ever turn this to good rock.  Smith Rock is known for crappy rock quality.  This is the worst of the worst at Smith.  Navigating this rotten layer is a mandatory part of the Anglin's Buttress experience.  Additional sections of dubious rock to be aware of: the common finishing pitch of Anglin' n Danglin/ Jim Climbing, the Deception Arete pitch on 7/10 split, the upper stem box on the third pitch of Jim Climbing, and the entire route of Chosstafarian.For people with a low choss tolerance, this is not your crag.  I've worked very hard to make this wall as clean as possible.  But, I'm no alchemist.  Nobody can turn rotten rock into gold.  These are all four star routes to me, but I can't rate them that with a good conscience.  Some people will think the entire crag is a bomb.  I can't emphasize it enough to wear a helmet and expect loose rock.Please respect the seasonal closure for Golden Eagle nesting.  It's generally closed from early February through early August, but the specific dates change from year to year.