New Wave

New Wave is a small sunny cliff up towards the top of Rattlesnake Mountain. The rock on the left side is lighter in color, and more rich in Mica than the rest of Rumney. So, New Wave literally sparkles in the sun. This lighter rock is well featured and well bolted, making Sally's Alley (11c), Weevil Knevil (12a), and Roaring Silence (13b) some of Rumney's most enjoyable routes. Air and Pleasant Danger, a classic 5.8, is an adventurous, exposed line that follows the far left edge of the cliff. The rock on the right side of the cliff offers more fantastic climbing. Dark Star (13c/d), a crimpy technical face on black rock, is a favorite when dry. Ten of Spades, a blunt arete that climbs like sandstone, is one of Rumney's best and most technical 5.10's.

Since New Wave packs so many excellent routes from 5.8 to 5.14 onto one ledge, it's low on elbow space if too many parties are there at one time. Make sure you don't drop any gear, dogs, or children off the edge. It's a long way down.