A spicy boulder problem (tricky pro) off the deck leads to a thin and sandy left-facing corner.

Surmount 2 roofs and climb an endless thin-hands offset to the chains!

Tat anchor

Marathon Gasp

LTD - Live the Dream

Fingers on a Landscape

Liquid Charge

Fishing for Trango

Bloody Dick Art

Bloodsport

The Prescription

A wild and stunning line up the splitter system that cleaves the massive rectangular pillar which stands out from the far left prow of the wall, where the west face wraps around to the north. Something of an anomaly for the Creek, this thing offers 4 roofs/bulges and several corner changes; lowering from the anchor deposits you out 5-10 feet from the base. It also throws every size from blue TCU to new #5 camalot, with the majority being hands and cups. Definitely a burly outing with a unique character!

Start up splitter tips which quickly widens through tight hands to the first awkward slot guarding the upper corners. The lower portion of the pillar cleaved off at some point, leaving some friable rock to the right of the crack before the slot. It's not bad after some cleaning, and will clean up with some traffic. The remainder of the route is on excellent chocolate varnish. Once past the initial slot follow hands and cups in a left-facing corner to a 15' #5 camalot section immediately followed by a short hands roof. Continue up to the upper slot bulge where the corners change. This is passed via strenuous hands in the back and knee-locks into fists and cups. The final right-facing corner is all cups, with a stance rest before the last 20' overhanging cups corner (reminiscent of Think Pink) to the exposed belay slot. A full 70m rope just gets you back to earth.

This is an absolute sleeper gem of a route that has so much going for it.

The route proper starts on an excellent refrigerated shady ledge 30' off the ground in the back of a chimney between a detached block and the wall proper.

To reach this ledge start in the big 30' tall chimney. Either solo the chimney (5.5) or after 10 feet traverse left on a small ledge across the block to a 20' crack that takes #3-#5 to the belay ledge (probably 5.10). If you solo the chimney but your partner wants a belay you'll want a #5 and a sling for a directional.

The route proper is a beautiful 70' splitter that goes from BD .5s to 1s. The grade however is moderated by some face holds and stemming where the crack is hardest.

There is a faded hard to read plaque on the ground.

Beautiful long sustained fingercrack in a left facing corner. I've heard this can be dirty (it's sort of below a drainage up top), but it was clean as a whistle when we did it and no loose rock to speak of.

Bloom gave this 5.11 but it felt a lot harder to us, I thought this thing was harder than Way Rambo.

This thing eats .4s and yellow metolius yet I could rarely ever get a second knuckle jam and was forced to use rattly first knuckle jams almost the entire time.

A short splitter line with cool climbing, but not without a healthy dose of sand. Shallow left-facing corner with fingers and ringlocks to tight hands, flared bulge on cups, delicate crack switch right into tight hands-cups splitter to belay shelf. May clean up with traffic, may just be a sandier route. Might be a bit of a sandbag (no pun intended).

Named after a terrible alcoholic energy drink a friend sent down from Montana...doubt they're available in Utah. Pizzo's first new route!

A quality and clean right-facing dihedral with cups, fists, and some butterflies. The anchors can't be seen from below, and there's no plaque.

A spicy layback making you earn it at the last move!

A short but powerful tips crack with technical jamming all the way to the chains. Do IT

Description

Protection

Routes in Left Rambo